May 20, 2021 / Exclusive / How To

5 Unisex Designs to Expand Your Jewelry Collection

Are you interested in bringing in new clientele? Check out these 5 
unisex and men's jewelry designs to expand your jewelry collection! ...

Trying to find a way to bring in new clientele? Incorporate these 5 unisex designs into your existing jewelry line to expand your collection. Try out men's jewelry bestsellers as well.

Adding new collections to your line is vital to running a jewelry business, but adding new clientele is too. Explore alternative jewelry styles to bring in a wider audience. Introducing men's jewelry and unisex styles is a great way to do this! Nowadays, more ‘masculine’ styles are drawing a wider audience and are gaining popularity. We’ll explore 5 pieces that fit the bill, plus several easy bonus ideas!

How to Make a Metal Money Clip

Copper, Sterling Silver and CZ Money Clip
Copper, Sterling Silver, and CZ Money Clip

Money clips have been a staple in the jewelry world for decades. These non-traditional jewelry pieces are ideal for holding both cash and cards, plus they eliminate the need for bulky wallets making them appealing to different genders and age groups. Easily reproduce money clips from a range of materials, including stainless steel, titanium, sterling silver, brass, and copper. You can add designs through stamping, texturing, and soldering on embellishments such as charms, granules, and solder ornaments.

There are some pros and cons to metal money clips. Pro's: Copper and brass hold up very well as a daily used money clip, plus they'll age beautifully with a natural patina. They can be heavier than their leather counterparts, but that makes it easier to tell if they’ve slipped out of your pocket. The metal is durable, and if properly cared for, can last decades.

Cons: As a metal money clip, they're prone to bend, scratch, and become dented without proper care, especially sterling silver. It's best to use sterling silver metal clips for special occasions or gifts. Be sure to use a 16 or 18 gauge sheet, anything thinner will not hold its shape for long. The number one complaint is that they can lose their tension causing the open ends to separate. This is an easy fix and one you should share with your customers. All they need are a few household tools to get the job done.

  • Jewelry Pliers: Place a piece of leather or cloth between the pliers and the clip at the center fold. Squeeze to bring the open ends back together.
  • Vise: Place the money clip fold in leather or cloth and place the fold in a vise and close the vise in small increments until the ends are closed.
  • Hammer: Wrap leather or cloth around the fold of the clip and lightly hammer at the center of the fold. Use a nylon or rawhide mallet or the wooden handle of a hammer to prevent denting.

Any of these three techniques will work. I suggest trying the methods out and then either printing a card with these step-by-step instructions or posting a video of the technique you prefer on Instagram or your website. This is a win-win for everyone involved. Check out the video below to see how we made a money clip!

How to Make a Tie Clip

Sterling Silver and CZ Tie Clip
Sterling Silver and CZ Tie Clip

Another easy addition to your collection can be a tie clip. They keep ties close to the body, without damaging the fabric of the tie or shirt. Over the decades, neckties have become an alternative dress style for women as well, appealing to their feminine side and its symbol of power in the workforce. Clips can be stamped, left plain, or textured and bejeweled with CZ settings, charms, and ornaments. The steps to creating a tie clip are very similar to making a money clip. Watch the video below on how I created this tie clip.

How to Make Cuff Links

Sterling Silver and Turquoise Non-traditional JewelryCuff Links
Sterling Silver and Turquoise Unisex Cuff Links

Consider adding cuff links to your collection. They are a great special gift, and some even collect cufflinks. They can look both professional and playful, adding personality to an otherwise neutral look. Once you understand the anatomy of a cufflink backing, you can solder all types of designs to the face of it. Whether it's gemstones, pearls, enamels, or inlays, the list can go on and on. These wonderful non-traditional jewelry pieces can be appealing to many people.

How to Make a Bolo Tie

Making a bolo tie can range from simple to intricate, and they’re definitely having a moment right now! That means it’s the perfect time to introduce a bolo tie into your collection. The ornamental clasp located on the front of bolo ties is typically decorated with stones, found objects, or symbols. This clasp slides up or down on a u-shaped leather cord and the ends of the cords, which drop down in front, usually have a decorative metal tip.

The trick to the bolo tie is to allow the clasp to stay securely in place, but also to slide up and down along the cords without wearing down or damaging the leather. There are a few options for the tie finding (the part that connects the decorative front to the cords). The loops are the easiest, and most popular finding style. Below are images and descriptions of how John F. Heusler creates the backing on his bolo ties:

images of the back of a bolo tie created by John Heusler
Artist - John Heusler

"I use two loops that can also be done in a figure 8 design. To gain tension on the leather cord simply push the figure 8 loops down (away from each other) until the desired holding tension has been achieved. The bolo should not fall with gravity but make sure the tension is not too tight or it will leave marks on your cord. The thinner gauge wire the easier it is to bend but use thicker to give better holding power." - John Heusler

Note: Check out Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist Magazine, August 2019 Edition to see the step-by-step instructions on creating John F. Heusler's bolo tie shown above. Follow John on Instagram @gemologistjohn and Facebook at Heusler's Lapidary and Jewelry.

Check out these two fabulous bolo ties shown below! Both of these amazing artists shared helpful tips with me that you may want to incorporate into your own designs.

back and front of a bolo tie created by renee crum with a silver arrowhead and green stone on the front
Artist - Renee Crum

"I use the double rings but I use beaded wire for added friction." ~ Renee Crum, Gaia's Jewels

front and back of a bolo tie made in sterling silver with a stone with a dragon on it created by Pam Williams
Artist - Pam Williams

"I make a figure 8 to create the tension and the two lower loops to keep the tips from clanging together." ~ Pam Williams, PW Jewelry Designs

How to Make Signet Rings

Artist: Unknown
Artist: Unknown

Last, but not least, there are signet rings. Adorned with a family crest or other identifying marks, signet rings were originally used as an official signature of the wearer. Today, they can still represent important parts of people’s lives, but can also just be a beautiful piece of jewelry!

What makes a signet ring unique? It's the specific design. The shank features a raised flat face at the top that usually has a significant stone, symbol, or carving embedded into it. Traditionally, these rings were worn on the pinky finger of the non-dominate hand.

"Adding a signet ring to a jewelry line is a great item to have available. It would take a bit of time investment in pattern making and modeling to make the templates necessary to be able to reliably make the ring in various sizes, both finger size and top dimension to fit a specific size stone or intaglio." ~ Michael David Sturlin, Michael Sturlin Studio

Easy Men's Jewelry Upsells

I mentioned that I’d also be giving a few tips for quick, easy add-ons to your unisex jewelry options. These pieces are ones you can start off by purchasing ready to wear jewelry. Check out the list below!

heavy curb chain in silver and oxidized silver laying on wood
Pre-finished chains for easy add-ons
  • Hoops for Men – These days, hoop earrings are no longer just for women! As piercings in general have become more popular, you see a wider range of people with pierced ears. When promoting to men, opt for smaller, thicker styles of hoops with little decoration. Men like to stack on ear piercings too. Staggered sizes of huggies or endless hoops are the perfect solution. SHOP EARRINGS >>>

Examples of unisex sterling and gold filled hoops

  • Thicker Chains – Thicker chains in styles such as curb, marine, and rolo tend to have a more ‘masculine’ feel and appeal to a broad audience. They work great on their own, or layered to create your own unique necklace stack. SHOP CHAIN >>>

sterling curb and rolo chain and gold filled marine chain

  • Body Piercings – Body piercings are becoming more popular as well. Think nose, eyebrow, and cartilage piercings! These aren’t for all audiences, but if you think they fit your target customer, try them out! SHOP BODY PIERCINGS >>>

gold cartilage stud, nose ring, and eyebrow piercing

  • Leather CordsLeather cords or alternative materials to chain are also a great way to expand your audience. They can offer a more casual style and are just as customizable! Slip on a pre-made charm or craft your own. SHOP LEATHER CORDS >>>

 man wearing white tshirt with turtle charm and weed leaf charm on layered leather necklaces

In conclusion:

Adding any of these unisex jewelry pieces would be a great addition to your current line. However, if you still feel unsure, poll your customer email list or ask them on social media. Explain to them that you are considering expanding your line and which item(s) they would be interested in seeing in your new collection. This can narrow down your list, gets your customers excited, and you can post updated images or videos to keep them interested. It's a win-win. Also making a few new pieces, prior to a show, will also allow you to gauge reactions or pull in new clientele. The best thing about the jewelry items shown above is that everyone can enjoy wearing them.

Written By: Erica Stice
Erica is the former Studio Coordinator at Halstead. She spent 14 years with the company across a variety of departments but fell in love with metalsmithing. Erica's top tip for new metalsmiths is: "Practice! Be patient with yourself and have fun with it. Don't be afraid to ask questions. All of us at Halstead enjoy helping people whether it's questions on products or technical help in the studio. We're here for you."