Learn how to set a stone in a prong settings! This tutorial covers stone vocabulary and the basics of prong setting both faceted stone and cabochon cuts.
We have sterling silver prong settings in our inventory! Included are 4 and 6 prong settings, faceted and cabochon settings, ovals, rounds and even strip settings. Of course, you could fabricate your own out of jewelry wire by soldering, filing and notch cutting; but, these pre-made findings can save you a lot of time when you are using calibrated stone sizes in your work. Learn how to start prong setting your own loose gemstones in this step-by-step guide.
Stones are said to be "calibrated" when they are precisely cut to even diameters such as 4mm, 6mm or 8mm with a traditional shape (round, oval, etc) and a standard crown and pavilion height. These are the most commonly used stones in jewelry making and we have setting findings available to fit a broad range of options. Fancy cuts or stones with unusual proportions will need custom fabricated settings.
Let's cover some stone basics first.
Cabochons & Faceted Stone Settings
Faceted Stone Settings
The illustration below shows a faceted stone. Our SEF series of prong settings are designed for this type of cut. On the right-hand side of the illustration is the basic "anatomy" vocabulary for a faceted stone. If you're new to gems, you'll need to know these terms in a minute. On the left, I've added a close-up of a pre-notched prong. The girdle of the stone should nest right into the prong notch.
Cabochon Prong Settings
Prefabricated cabochon settings work best with low dome cabs in calibrated sizes. Deep cut cabs with high side walls may be difficult to secure. The prongs must have room to bend over the curvature of the stone to grip it in place.
Be careful when ordering!
Yes, the faceted prong settings and cabochon prong settings both have prongs, but they're different! Our pre-made faceted prong settings will always be pre-notched. This notch is an important part of any faceted stone prong setting, even ones you make yourself. It provides a place for the girdle of the stone to sit so it can be held securely. The cab settings do not have a notch. The flat bottom of the cabochon simply rests on the bottom of the setting and the prongs are pushed over the curved surface.
As you can see in the illustration above, the culet of a faceted gem would protrude from the bottom of an SEC cabochon setting. Moreover, the prongs would be difficult to secure around the girdle and table of the stone without notches to accommodate the faceted shape.
Be sure to choose the right type of setting for your stone cut.
Prong Setting Tools
There are a few different tools you can use when prong setting. The above image shows two different types of prong setting pliers and a prong pusher. Both pliers achieve the same outcome - one jaw is placed below the setting, one is placed on top of the prong, and a gentle squeeze closes the prong over the stone. These pliers are often used with faceted stones. Prong pushers can be used with both faceted and cabochon stones. You just place the pusher on the prong and rock it towards the top of the stone, closing the prong. If you need some extra force, you can tap the end of the prong pusher with hammer.
Step-by-step Prong Setting Instructions
Below are the steps to prong setting. We've used a faceted stone for the example, but it's the same process for a cabochon stone. No matter what tools you're using, the process is the same too!
Step 1: Placing the Stone
Using tweezers or fine-tipped pliers, place the stone between the prongs. When you have situated it, make sure it is resting on all of the pre-notched grooves in the prongs and the stone itself is sitting evenly. Check from all angles that your stone sits level.
Tip:
Tip: Use a small piece of wax on the end of a q-tip or toothpick to help maneuver the stone. It keeps your fingers out of the way so you can see what you're doing and the wax wipes right off the table of the gemstone.
Step 2: Adjusting the Prongs
Sometimes the prongs need a little bit of adjusting before you close them up. This might mean moving some left to right so the spacing between each prong is the same, or pulling one away from the stone if the stone doesn't quite fit. Once you have your prongs even, you'll want to squeeze them at the girdle of the stone - this locks the stone into place before you push the prong tip over.
Step 3: Closing the Prongs
Regardless of which tool you're using, the last step is to push the prong tip over the stone.
- Prong Pusher - Place the pusher on top of the prong at a 45 degree angle to the stone. Rock it towards the top of the stone to push the prong closed. If you notice the prong doesn't fully touch the top of the stone, you can gently hit the pusher with a hammer for some extra force. Be careful not to hit it too hard!
- Prong Pliers - Place one jaw underneath the setting and one jaw on top of the prong. Gently squeeze the pliers until the prong is pushed down.
When closing prongs, you'll want to work in opposites., or north, south, east, west. Always close the prong directly across from the one you just did before moving on to one next to it. This helps keep your stone even and level while setting. Once all of your prongs are closed, double check your stone isn't loose. Go back in to tighten the prongs if you need to.
Now get out your luscious gemstone stash of beautiful colors and cuts and get started. Shop for gemstone settings and loose CZs and learn more about setting stones at Halstead today!
Continue learning with our other related articles on jewelry techniques:
5 Tips to Start Setting Stones
Adding Diamonds to your Silver Jewelry Collection
Shop thousands of wholesale jewelry supplies with Halstead!
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